Top 5 must-sees in Halifax, Nova Scotia

HALIFAX - You'll find fresh Maritime air, a pretty waterfront and some of the nicest people in Canada in Halifax; the sort of folks who come to a screeching stop in the middle of the road the second a Torontonian puts their foot out to jaywalk. Here are five must-see's when you're in Halifax.

WATERFRONT - They've done a great job making the waterfront pedestrian friendly by creating what's called one of the world's longest downtown boardwalks. You'll stroll past gleaming ships and small shops selling everything from seafaring knick-knacks to heavenly rum cakes. You'll also find special events such as beach volleyball tournaments and concerts.

You can try any number of ships for fun harbour tours, including the popular Harbour Hopper, a tall ship adventure or a nature and whale-watching cruise. WEBSITES: www.mtcw.ca, https://my-waterfront.ca/^[1]^[2]

THE CITADEL - This hilltop site was chosen as the spot for a fort to protect Halifax in 1749, and it's still a focal point for the city, in part because buildings aren't allowed to be any higher than the top of the hill. You can get a guided tour and

learn about the not-so-wonderful lives of Victorian-era soldiers, or even become a member of the 78th Highlanders for a day. They fire off a gun at noon ever day, and they also do spooky ghost tours. The Citadel also offers fine views of the city and the surrounding area. WEBSITE: http://www.pc.gc.ca/lhn-nhs/ns/halifax/index.aspx ^[3]

FOOD AND DRINK - The Halifax Seaport Farmers' Market is the oldest continuously operated market of its sort in North America, dating back to 1750. It's now located on the waterfront and features glorious produce, meats and other local products in a sunny, inviting building. Da Maurizio is an elegant northern Italian spot that Rick Mercer once called his favourite restaurant in Canada. Chives is a more casual option with a tasty seafood curry chowder and other fine dishes. Halifax is home to roughly 1,143 shops selling middle Eastern donair sandwiches with roasted meat and a gooey white sauce that you might or might not relish. Alexander Keith's has a fun brewery tour. Garrison Brewing is a local craft beer company that makes a fine Grand Baltic Porter and other brews. The Lower Deck is a fun pub with live entertainment every night. WEBSITES: www.damaurizio .ca ^[4], www.chives.ca ^[5].

PEGGY'S COVE - This bit of land a half-hour from the city is one of the iconic sights of all of Canada, with a classic red and white lighthouse rising over craggy grey rocks worn smooth by the ceaseless pounding of the ocean. Try going early in the day or in the off-season (such as now) to avoid summer crowds. .Be sure to explore surrounding harbours and coves, not just the main tourist spot. One fun way to visit Peggy's Cove (or get a tour of Halifax itself) is with Bluenose Sidecar Tours, where you get to ride in an authentic motorcycle sidecar and learn all sorts of cool bits about the area from a pair of motorcycle aficionados. WEBSITES: www.peggyscoveregion.com, http://www.bluenosesidecartours.com/^[6]^[7]

TITANIC VICTIMS - Fairview Lawn Cemetery in north Halifax is the final resting place of 121 victims of the fateful RMS Titanic, sunk by an iceberg in 1912. You'll find monuments both lovely and spare for victims of all ages and backgrounds. Interest was sparked, of course, by the movie of the same name and the recent 100th anniversary. There's a marker in the cemetery for a J. Dawson. The Jack Dawson in the movie (portrayed by Leonardo DiCaprio) was a mythical figure, but folks still come and lay flowers or jelly beans on the J. Dawson marker. The graves marking the final resting places of young children are especially poignant.

STAYING - The Westin Nova Scotian is a beautiful hotel on the water that's great for business folks. The Lord Nelson Hotel and Suites is a 1928 landmark across from the Public Gardens.

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Jim Byers is a freelance travel writer based in Toronto.

jim@jimbyerstravel.com ^[8]